Here's my parts list:
- 08V31-SMA-0M035 - SWITCH ASSY., FR. FOGLIGHT
- 77302-TA0-Y01ZA - GARNISH, SWITCH *NH167L* (GRAPHITE BLACK)
- 77755-TF0-000ZA - LID, SWITCH HOLE *NH167L* (GRAPHITE BLACK)
- 6 x 90113-SJA-A00 - SCREW, TAPPING (5X14)
- 33950-TA0-A02 - FOGLIGHT ASSY., L. FR.
- 33901-TA0-315 - FOGLIGHT UNIT, R. (NO CORD)
- 08V31-TK6-10030 - HARNESS, FOGLIGHT SWITCH
- 71109-TA1-J01 - CLIP, SELF HOLD
The wiring itself is pretty straight forward, I built my own harness. I just picked up some H11 connectors and a 40A relay from the local auto parts store and that was about all I needed. I bought the OEM harness solely to harvest the connectors off of it to plug into my switch. Make sure you buy a relay!! Otherwise, you'll burn up the switch after not too long. Mine worked fine for about two weeks until it was dead. Good thing the switch itself is pretty cheap.
The diagram forgets to include the fuse between the battery and the relay.
I'm not saying this is necessarily the best way to do it, but this is how mine are currently wired. If i were to go back and improve it, I'd have each light on a separate relay. As far as the Fog Light On Wire (pink), you can wire that to always be hot, or only when the key is in the On position. I chose that route so that I wouldn't accidentally kill my battery. For the Dash Light Illumination Positive (red), I initially tried to tap into the VSA Off switch in order to get it to illuminate and dim. I tried this with a t-tap, and while it worked for a little while, it was really inconsistent because I had not made a solid connection. I found a fuse in the passenger's side fuse box that is only hot when the lights are on (when the dash lights would be on), but the dimming functionality doesn't work. Until I get up the gumption to solder a tap into the VSA button switch, I'll just have to deal.
Hope this helps!