recently, my original remote has been acting weird and not always... working. so i'd have to use the actual key to unlock the door. i brought out another blank that i have yet to get cut out with me so i could at least program and the remote.. my OEM remote worked to unlock the door, and when i synced the other remote, my OEM stopped working! it'd still start the car but i couldn't lock/unlock the doors with it. i couldn't start the car with the aftermarket remote though... i think the immobilizer kicked in.. because it literally wouldn't start lol. i was also embarrassed by my neighbors from across the street just staring at me while i attempt to "modify" my car every now and then
so i gave that up... real quick.i then put the aftermarket remote into the OEM fob and programmed the OEM remote to the car... it worked, until i took the key out of the ignition. (hang on, i realized how stupid i was. just let me explain lol)
at that point, i was confused, because i was only able to use the aftermarket remote to unlock/lock the doors, making the OEM useless. so, AGAIN, i swapped the remotes – this time, putting the OEM key back into the OEM key fob, and successfully started the car, just to make sure i wasn't tripping.
i then re-programmed the OEM remote to the car WITH it inside of the OEM key fob, and did [probably] what i should've done when i first tried to sync the aftermarket remote – CONFIRM the programming by pressing lock/unlock a couple of times after the programming. LOL!!! so i pressed lock, unlock, unlock, lock (almost like cheat codes haha) or whatever and the car responded properly.
i realized that i needed to confirm the programming, period, so i retried the programming with the aftermarket remote (at this point i just had the actual aftermarket remote in my hand, not in the blank key... the blank key was in the house)... confirmed it, and boom. got out the car, locked the doors with the OEM remote, and activated the alarm with the aftermarket remote and pressed lock on both a couple times to make sure it was still working. so now i have those two remotes that work. i haven't put the aftermarket remote back in my OEM key fob since, so i'm not sure if me failing to confirm the programming is what made the car refuse to start before with it inside the OEM key fob, albeit it probably was lol. i was skeptical about even programming this aftermarket remote because i already had 3 remotes programmed to the car (including the OEM). so MAYBE the car can only have a maximum of 3 remotes programmed to it at once? either which way... i need to get my other blank keys cut... soon. i was referred to Paramus Honda in New Jersey by a guy on DA to get that done, since i ranted about being charged outrageous prices from local locksmiths and being rejected by car dealerships in the area, and mentioned that i'd be heading to New Jersey for the holidays next week. i got my flip key cut by a local locksmith for $25. he'd originally charge $50 but since it didn't work, he only charged $25. the issue with that is that the flip key is intentionally designed for Honda remotes that have the transponder separated from the circuit board (i presume this is the case of previous-gen Hondas; i.e., 7G, 6G) by having a slot designated for the transponder; whereas for the 8G and 9G+, the transponder is soldered onto the circuit board. however, a guy on DA actually removed the transponder from the circuit board of his remote and connected it to the circuit board with electrical cable and his flip key (reportedly) works fine! i plan to do that one day... because at this moment, i only have two CUT keys – the flip key and the OEM – not to mention that only one of those work (OEM).. but i have FOUR remotes... THREE of which actually work... since i presume that the car can only have 3 programmed remotes at once, and i haven't gotten the chance to try out the other two remotes. gah... WORDS!!!!!!
