Our8thGens

I've seen many people do it but would i need to take off my bumper to do it. i put hids into my low beams and i did it through the tire wall behind the tire but it sucked because it was a tight space and no lighting. How did you guys put your switchbacks in?

I fixed your youtube link (just use the ID) I'm not running switchbacks, but when it comes to messing with the headlights on my sedan, although it's time consuming I've always just taken the bumper off

Thanks Don't really feel like taking off my front bumper and ive seen some people get around it. Just want to see if anyone has done it another way. Also if you anyone have switchback leds link me the one you got. i am comparing prices and Leds atm

No need to remove the bumper for the signal bulb. For the passenger side, pull the coolant reserve straight up and push it to the side and you can access the bulb. For the driver side it will be tighter but if you want to make it easier, remove the battery and you have full play room.

i would really suggest tapping the trunk signals for the resistors... The front and rear signals of right and left sides are one circuit (so two circuits in total) so you can add a resistor to the rear to run a front LED. Likewise, run a single lower ohm resistor in the rear per side to go LED front and rear.

Why prefer rear over front? The resistors get hot very quickly and there is a lot more damage to be had in the engine bay than in the trunk. If you ever need to have your hazards on for several minutes you better be positive that the resistor is not next to anything that could melt. There is a nice metal pocket by the backup lights that a resistor can insert into perfectly.

DOOM wrote:i would really suggest tapping the trunk signals for the resistors... The front and rear signals of right and left sides are one circuit (so two circuits in total) so you can add a resistor to the rear to run a front LED. Likewise, run a single lower ohm resistor in the rear per side to go LED front and rear.

Why prefer rear over front? The resistors get hot very quickly and there is a lot more damage to be had in the engine bay than in the trunk. If you ever need to have your hazards on for several minutes you better be positive that the resistor is not next to anything that could melt. There is a nice metal pocket by the backup lights that a resistor can insert into perfectly.

Would love to see how you mounted yours, DOOM. I picked up some second-hand switchbacks (and resistors) but haven't put them in yet since I still have the amber pieces in my headlights. Didn't realize front and back are both on the same circuit, that's pretty nice. I need to check my resistor, but what size (or ohm) resistor would you recommend?

3 ohm for front and rear combo. 6 ohm for one. you'll notice that i also used an aluminum heat transfer shield (the resistor sits inside) as another precautionary measure.

and fyi - for front or rear they do make inline resistors that are plug and play. the catch is that you cannot add one in front and one in rear. ...guessing that the sum of the resistance is greater than 3 ohms but individually they are sufficient for 6. kind of weird and why these were long since sold off. the 3m tape was my own add on to the resistor box - which is nice to have an enclosed unit btw.

DOOM wrote:3 ohm for front and rear combo. 6 ohm for one. you'll notice that i also used an aluminum heat transfer shield (the resistor sits inside) as another precautionary measure.

do you have pictures of how to connect the resistors or atleast what wires. i'm not to good with electronics and i want to be sure i get it done right

if you're not comfortable with it i wouldn't do it - tapping isn't a big deal but you are impacting your oem wiring harness. this might be $50 tops at an audio shop.